Similar to
B&Bs, casas particulares are rooms available in Cuban homes, encouraged by
record tourism - and last November in Varadero, the relaxing of regulations. We
spend our entire month in homes rather than hotels, where our hosts are
surprised and pleased to see Americans and ask us to tell our friends that Cuba
is safe and welcomes them. We find various casas through recommendations by our
Cuba iPhone app[1]
or hosts of other casas. Often they simply call ahead to their friend in the
next town, checking availability. As our telephones don't work in Cuba, this is
quite helpful. We tend to stay in city centers (World Heritage colonial towns)
for walking ease and to avoid expensive taxi fares. On a couple occasions we
take the bait offered by owners as they mob bus stations seeking visitors, and
each time it works out fine. A government fee of $5 per room per night (whether
booked or not) necessitates minimum occupancies (hence the rush by owners,
reps, taxi drivers, and jinteros), and on the plus side, there is a level of
hospitality and care taken by hosts to ensure happy guests.
With few
exceptions, the homes we stay in are beautiful spaces - colonial, neoclassical,
baroque, or art deco homes with high ceilings, interior courtyards and gardens,
rooftops for happy hour views. Bedrooms are all air conditioned, most have hot
water, and refrigerators are de rigeur. Breakfast is offered at every casa, and
while seeking breakfast elsewhere, we find out why. Cubans eat breakfast at
home. Other than coffee, and an occasional freshly-squeezed OJ or grilled
sandwich, there is no breakfast on the street. No Dunkin Donuts, no Denny's, no
IHOPs. Gratefully.
Casas are
inexpensive, ranging from $15 to $30 per night per room. Tourist hotel rooms go
from $90 to $500 (with a $1000 option in Varadero).
Negotiating tips
to help avoid any check-out problems:
1. Make sure you're talking the
same currency (there are two in Cuba)
2. Price per room or per person?
3. Write down the agreed price
4. Get clear agreement on written
price before parking your bags
I am surprised by
how few hosts speak English, though several speak Italian and French, both of
which get me by more than a few times; although limited Spanish and sign
language works just fine throughout the country. I tell them "estoy
aprendendio" (I'm learning). They laugh and are understanding. Those who
speak English learn at University or by practicing with tourists. One woman
admits to learning from Celine Dion CDs.
I interview a casa
owner in depth after she complains one afternoon about the recent devaluation
of the local currency. Many of the supplies, food, and labor are bought in MN,
so that her buying power is now reduced. She finds the growing competition
difficult, and says that jinteros and taxi drivers are 'stealing her business'
at bus and train stations. She now asks guests on arrival how they found her,
since many drivers attempt to collect a $5 finder's fee even if a guest asks
for her casa specifically, instead of it being recommended by the taxi service.
Government rules
and regs drive her crazy (something we all have in common) -
·
having
to pay fees whether income is earned or not ($150 per month per room)[2]
·
having
to be open and available 365 days per year
·
employment
limited to one worker [3]
·
daily
registration of papers and forms with immigration (physically - go to the
finance office, wait in line, etc. - not online)[4]
Her casa is
impeccable, the last in a series she and her husband have owned, starting with
a small apartment left to her by an aunt twelve years prior. With all her
complaints, she is grateful for her lifestyle and happy to have another source
of income.
I think most
Cubanos carrying on small business ventures are grateful for any additional
income. Still, major income discrepancies are negligible, and due to a shared
social contract, any large wealth would be shameful. There is poverty, despite
basic needs being met, but there are no homeless in Cuba, no panhandlers - like
the 83-year old woman I met in Ashland, standing in 28-degree weather to raise
money to support three grandchildren she's raising.
In Cienfuegos we
book a fabulous suite of rooms on the water, but when we arrive by taxi, our
room has been filled. We'd been warned. Some casa owners, due to the daily $5
fee, move in guests even if they have reservations...bird in the hand. Rx: Arrive
early in the day.
Over the course of
our month on the island, we enjoy a few memorable casas particulares:
·
Margot's
in Habana Vieja. In business for
twelve years, Margot goes beyond the call - boiling and chilling water for
guests, leaving out ample fresh fruit, refusing any payment for eggs, bread,
and other food we use...and for laundry service, storing our suitcase while we
explore the rest of the island, and holding goods I leave for a friend to pick
up.
· Norma
and Jorge's in Varadero, where we arrive on Jorge's sixtieth birthday.
Initially they apologize for it, then invite us to the party - about forty
friends celebrating, many musicians playing, much salsa dancing, tamales de
province, crab du casa, half a pig cooking all day, numerous sides, and a table
of rum and mixers. Happy Birthday, Jorge!
· At
Maria's lovely suite in Puerto Padre, her son is tour guide for the May 1st
(International Workers Day) celebration, beach and disco, and Maria nurses me
through a couple days of Batista's revenge with special teas, medicines, and care.
Her lobster is famous!
· Chocolate
and Dalianis in Trinidad was our favorite for all sorts of reasons. Amid the
red-tiled rooftops and pastel-colored houses, framing the cobblestone streets
of this World Heritage town, we chance by a casa offering a fabulous suite of
rooms - two bedrooms (3 beds and yes, a/c), living and dining rooms, bathroom
(hot water), a lanai, patio, and rooftop for watching Trinidad, clouds and
mountains, and the world go by. $15 per night. Best value of the entire trip! [more
in the food chapter]
Casas are all so
unique and special. They keep us from the 'hotel experience' and bring us
closer to the real Cuba. Hosts are informal ambassadors of their country, and
getting to know their families is one of the best parts of our trip.
[1] Havana Good Time, by Conner Gorry: a rich
intro to all things Havana - casas and hotels, paladars and restaurants, music
and art scene, museums, galleries, attractions, money changing, transportation,
neighborhoods, shopping...
[2] In Varadero the fee is higher due to the
'touristic zone' at $200 per room per month.
[3] The owner uses four part-timers, having tried
working one girl, but finding it so much work they inevitably quit. The policy
is to encourage the hiring of family members.
[4] The paperwork astounds. Nothing is handled
online due to dreadful internet service, hence an astonishing amount of papers
and forms and lines...and jobs.
